Monday, April 23, 2007

Notes on 'My Invented Country': What I will come to know about Chile?

I finished reading Isabel Allende's nostalgic account of Chile and I found it to be very forthcoming. Isabel Allende is a Chilean author, well known for her whimsical tales such as "The House of the Spirits" and frequently compared to Gabriel Garcia Marquez. I was naturally drawn to her writing style, because of my adoration for Marquez. I did find it interesting to discover that she is the niece of the Chilean socialist president Salvador Allende. President Allende's violent death sent Isabel into exile and transformed her into a writer.

Isabel grew up in Chile, but she now lives in California. Although she calls Chile her home, in her novel she claims that she "never quite fit in anywhere." "My Invented Country" was extremely helpful in describing what I may encounter in Chile....
  • Political History : During Salvador Allende's presidency in 1970-1973, he implemented many socialist programs in Chile. This included nationalization of large-scale industries, and government administration of the health care system, educational system, a program of free milk for children, and a greatly expanded plan of land seizure and redistribution. He intended to improve the socioeconomic welfare of Chile's poorest citizens. Allende activated inflation, strikes, and radical Cuban policies during his term. In 1973, Allende shot himself with a gun given to him by Fidel Castro with the engraving, "To my good friend Salvador from Fidel, who by different means tries to achieve the same goals." Since Allende was in power, the Chilean government has experienced a rightest backlash (military coup in 1973), military dictatorship (Pinochet from 1973-1989), and a return to democracy in 1988. In 2006, Chileans elected their first female president, Michelle Bachelet.
  • Geography and Climate: "After God made made most of South America he took what was left over-bits of desert, mountain, valley, glacier, rainforest, and coast ---and created Chile."
  • Population and People: Chile is divided into 12 regions. 75% of the country's population lives in 20% of the country's total area (in the region around Santiago, the country's capitol). Chile's people are mainly of Spanish ancestry but some regions have people with irish, english, and german descent. Isabel Allende says that Chile's immigration policy has been openly racist. For a long time they didnt accept anyone with a deep tan. "African blood was never incorporated into Chilean stock, which would have given us rhythm and beauty; neither was there significant Italian immigration as there was in Argentina, which would have made us extroverted, vain, and happy; there weren't enough Asians, as there were in Peru, to compensate for our solemnity and spice up our cuisine." Also, the poor and rich do not mix in Chile like in Mexico, the distance between the mansions and shacks is astronomical.
  • Society and Conduct: Chile has a strong European influence. Isabel writes, "We turn our backs on Latin America, always comparing ourselves instead to europe. We are very self centered: the rest of the universe exists only to consume our wines and produce soccer teams we can beat....The foreigner is not allowed to criticize-for that we have more than 15 million natives who do that all the time." It is a conservative country because of the influence of the Catholic church.
  • Relationships: Chileans are generally very interested people, especially foreigners. Even Santiago is noted for having the soul of a village. "Everything was public knowledge. Did someone miss mass on Sunday? That news traveled fast, and by Wednesday the parish priest was knocking on the door of the sinner to find out the reason." They have a term about talking about friends/neighbors in Chile called "plucking": a term that comes from plucking chickens, or denuding the out-of-earshot victum of his feathers. Also, a person's popularity is measured by the number of jokes about him/her. However, most Chileans prefer seriousness. But, Allende confesses that , "We never let an opportunity pass to make fun of other people."
  • Hospitality: Chileans are sincerely hospitable. It is not uncommon to be invited into a Chilean home if you are a foreigner asking for directions. "It is impossible to go into a home, rich or poor, without accepting something to eat or drink, even if it's only a cup of tea. This is a national tradition." At least they will offer a "tecito, aguita, or vinito", a nice little drink or tea, water or wine.
  • Gender issues: At parties, men stand on one side of the room and women on the other. Chile is a macho country. "There is so much testosterone floating in the air that it's a miracle women don't grow beards." However, the machismo is much more veiled than that of Mexico. Chilean women ask for it though. They bring up their daughters to serve and their sons to be served. Chilean women dress simply, nearly always in slacks (I wonder what they will think about skirt collection!) "On the beach or at a party they all look the same, a chorus of clones." Also..."Chilean women do not paint fingernails, since that would indicate they don't work with their hands, and one of the worst possible epithets for a Chilean woman to be called is lazy."
  • Dining: Chile is a land of gluttony. Not only do they have tea time every afternoon, but they gorge themselves on seafood, sweets, and wine. Their famous drink, the "pisco sour", gives people a reason to celebrate.
  • Religion: 90% of Chileans are Roman Catholic. In Chile there is a plethora of saints of all stripes. Isabel shares that, "A few years ago we had a young girl who performed amazing cures. The press and television swarmed all over her, as well as multitudes of pilgrims who never gave her a moment's peace. When she was examined more closely, she turned out to be a transvestite, but that did nothing to detract from her prestige or put an end to her marvels."
  • Interests: Soccer, politics, money, foreigners, (me?)

"Cancer is caused by easy living, whereas discomfort is good for the health....cold showers, food difficult to chew, lumpy mattresses, third-class seats on trains, and clunky shoes."

I've decided that I will make the most of whatever card im dealth with. I still have no clue to where i will be living in Chile. If i survive healthful discomfort, Isabel Allende's grandfather promises me that I will be forever grateful for the most trivial pleasures in the future.

Monday, April 16, 2007

counting down the minutos

so i paid off the program fee and i purchased my plane ticket to Chile. And it required about the same amount of energy to earn enough money for my wanderlust spirit, as would be needed to climb an endless set of stairs. I feel very relieved. ive reached my final ascent and i will soon be able to feel the free, south american air.

This semester was an arduous one. My hectic schedule consisted of teaching first grade full time, slaving at Alamo part time, and creating lesson plans, all which accounted for about 70-80 hrs per week. Yes, i did squeeze in some laughs, some nights out at bars, some days reading outside in the sun, BUT i did not spend ample time with my parents, keep in touch with distance friends, nor did i have the time to prepare for Chile. All in all, i was a busy mf.

Thus explains my natural inclination to take this last month to rest. I have been very successful with sleep lately. And i've been fortunate to catch up with loved ones and enjoy Austin before my big journey.

Although there are the necessary Chile preparations, I do not feel the weight of them.
I've been productive already: I've finally found the chance to read up on Chile from books ive checked out at the library; im working on the novel, "The House of the Spirits" by Isabel Allende (a Chilean author, also niece of the late Chilean president Allende); i spoke with a good friend who studied abroad in Chile; i got some helpful pointers from a native Chicana (she works with me!); and i've begun checking off items on a lengthy shopping list.

The one thing i am still worried about is my spanish speaking ability.

I met with my Columbian friend, Gerald, in College Station last weekend. I know Gerald through an international organization, to which i was a mentor and leader. I tutored him in English, and later we switched roles, he became the instructor and I became the language learner. I have spent many coffee shop outings conversing in spanish with Gerald in the past year. But this weekend, I had begun the feel the pressure of my trip. I didnt have the confidence to speak with him, so i solely asked him to write down "fraces importante" for me.

After our short study session, Gerald and I went out with some of his friends from Latin America. I was adamant about us speaking in Spanish over lunch. His friends agreed and spoke spanish unceasingly.

"So...this is only a taste of what Chile is going to feel like for me. (sigh) I was incredibly lost." i said frankly after our check was brought.

They all said, "poco a poco, Cori, poco a poco". (little by little)